Weaving Style: The natural charm of a Banarasi handloom saree isn’t just in its fancy designs and soft materials but also in the detailed patterns that make it unique. Every thread in these dreamy drapes has a story, showing off the fantastic skills handed down through the years.
Understanding Weft and Warping methods of weaving style
In Banarasi handloom saree weaving, warp refers to vertical threads, and weft refers to horizontal threads. Weft is passed through warp threads using a shuttle. The warp threads are taut by the loom’s frame, and the weft threads are passed over and under them to create intricate designs.
Kadiyal or Korvai weaving style
Kadiyal is primarily used to weave edges or borders of the saree. Using the warp and weft techniques, interesting border patterns are created to weave the saree’s border and aanchal. The three sets of looms are used to make the top and bottom edges, as well as the central part of the saree. The edges are then connected to the central part of the saree in a way that they lock together; this locking is known as Kadiyal in local parlance.
Ektara or Ek Tar weaving style
The method of weaving a testament to the dedication of our artisans. As the name makes it clear, the method uses a single thread to create detailed patterns. It is made on a special loom called Getua loom, using a fine technique called the Five Step or Paanchi Kaadi method, all on traditional pit looms. Ektara is one of the finest weaves from Banaras and is commonly seen in authentic zari and Lankat sarees.
One of the oldest techniques, known for its laborious weaving methods.
Kadhwa stands for “kadha hua” or embroidered weaving style
A kadhwa woven saree typically engages two weavers on one saree, creating each motif separately on the saree. It is prized for its clean designs with no lose or float threads at the back of the saree. To bring out such precision with artwork created on the sarees, a kadhwa saree can only be made on a handloom. As a result, a kadhwa saree can take upto 8 months to complete, depending upon the intricacy of the design.
The Phekwa weaving style
One of the most popular modes of Banarasi weaving techniques that weaves motifs together in less time than the Kadhwa woven sarees. The Phekwa method combines weft and warp techniques, where the weft yarn is woven into the warp, creating motifs on the fabric called zamin. Another interesting fact about this time-tested technique is that it can combine multiple threads like silk, zari, resham, or all of them to create beautiful motifs.
The Meenakari
Known as the hallmark of handloom woven sarees, the Meenakari weaving technique is known to use up to twenty colours in a single saree! A Meenakari saree is a living testament to the wonders Banarasi weavers are known to create on silk fabrics. Minakari comprises mina (paradise or heaven), while kari (to put something on something) is the literal translation of heaven woven on silk fabric. A Meenakari saree is a tribute to the silk weaving scene of Banarasi culture, wherein centuries-old customs and traditions are displayed on the fabrics themselves.
We have come a long way in our quest to know all about weaving techniques. The trail of weaving techniques is laden with wonders we know as Banarasi silk, styled at the whims of the weavers in the methods listed above.
Now would be the perfect time to look at the Banarasi Poshak collection and adorn your saree collection with yet another wonder.
Author – Sakshi Singh
