Royalty of taste wrapped within the betel leaves, humara apna Paan. Such is its magnificence that it hasn’t escaped the notice of the Govt, bestowing upon it the illustrious GI tag, a beacon of its pureness and roots of Banaras.

Paan, an ancient digestive, mouth freshener, and many other allures hidden within the chew is capable of giving modern products a run for their money. It has evolved in its form throughout centuries, ranging from the ingredients added to it to local variations popular across India. However, one name stands out as the King of all paans: Banarasi Paan. 

Lord Shiv connection of Paan, Kashi ke कण-कण में बसे भोलेनाथ, and Banarasi Paan too is deeply embroiled in Lord Shiv connection. Legends believe the first seed of the betel leaves was planted by Lord Shiva and Mata Parvati on Mt. Kailash, whilst the leaves were brought to Kashi from the holy abode. Paan, quite often, forms part of religious offerings, marking the auspiciousness of the occasion. “Tambulam” or paan, favoured by Lord Shiva, is a vital offering during puja, known for its indulgence and pleasure.

Although paan has found its place in Banarasi culture since ancient times, it was the Mughals who gave paan its present grandeur and presence in the social scene, not just as a mouth freshener but also as an artistic expression. Mughals employed designated artisans to curate palatable paan with a variety of ingredients.

What goes into its making? (THE Art of making Banarasi Paan)

While, come today, there are modern variations available in the market, nothing beats the traditional ingredients, which never fail to satisfy taste buds. 

So, let’s find out what gives the Banarasi paan its famous quality,..melt in mouth Paan.

In Varanasi, a procedure called pakana, which technically means “cooking” but refers to the ripening of the leaf, is what makes a leaf softer than any other. For this reason, banarasi paan dissolves in the mouth. Using specific coal and wood, banarasi paan leaves are smoked in a dark chamber under constant observation. In addition to bleaching the leaf, especially Maghai, this also makes it incredibly tender and melt-in-your-mouth.

The basic and traditional ingredients that give the paan its acclaimed recognition are the smoked betel leaves, kattha, chuna, and a final touch of clove for holding the folded paan together. When savoured, the ingredients come together to create a symphony in the mouth of flavours blending effortlessly.

Cultural Legacy of Banarasi Paan

The camaraderie of people,  the art of savouring Paan, akin to Banarasi mood, is never to be savoured without company. Echoes of laughter, jokes, and leg pulling amidst the refreshing mood set by Banarasi paan mark a bright point in the daily life of a Banarasi. 

Reflection of Banarasi andaz, The art of Banarasi paan not only lies in its making, and its ingredients, but essential to its appeal is the cultural practice of “beera jamana”, that is, a gathering of people enjoying the paan.

Social community around Paan shops, Paan dariba or Paan ki gumti, as commonly known amongst the locals, these little hole-in-the-wall shops are vital to societal communication in the Banarasi cultural landscape.

Obstacles to its legacy

However, with changing requirements of clients, emerging commercial opportunities, and the fading cultural practice of hospitality giving way to the greed of making higher profits has dimmed the light of Paan, to some extent.

Modern and commercial ingredients like gulkand, fennel seeds, cherry, silver varq, etc., not only raise health concerns, that is, higher sugar levels in gulkand, and cancer concerns in the use of silver varq, but also alter the traditional taste of the paan.

Furthermore, the usage of paan has come to be associated with intoxication. The usage of tobacco as an ingredient has led to a downplaying of reverence that has come to be associated with an offering of paan. Unhygienic practices, and spitting on walls, and roads have led to a bad name for the cultural treat. 

However, not all is lost. Paan continues to be a highly respected and cultivated habit practised by many Banarasi paan loyalists. The baton to preserve its cultural legacy rests in our hands.

Khaike paan banaras wala..a popular song from Amitabh Bachchan’s film, Don, is a testament to the popularity Banarasi Paan proudly boasts of.

Author – Sakshi Singh