“ Maqbool Dar, the silk weaver from Kashmir, weaved an Indian map on a silk carpet. A testimony of the devotion to the art and its craftsmanship among silk artisans.”
India has a unique distinction of producing all 4 types of silk: Mulberry, Tasar, Eri, and Muga. It is also the 2nd largest producer of silk in the world. The industry’s prowess lies in the fact that 1 hectare of Mulberry trees generates 12 years of gainful employment for a family!
Indian silk industry dates back to Indus Valley civilization; that is, the craft is as old as human civilization itself. Silk artisans are the backbone of this manpower-heavy industry.
Rigors of silk-making of Silk Artisans
The process of silk production leaves their audience wonderstruck and in awe. The life cycle of the silkworm is a crucial part of silk production. This starts with the careful growing of Mulberry trees since the quality of the leaves is key to the quality of the silk threads. The life silk farmer involves tending to a Mulberry plantation, four lifecycles of the silkworm, and post cocoon phase, which involves reeling silk threads from the worms. 10kg of silk cocoons produces one roll of silk, which then goes to artisans for finished products suitable for the consumer market of textiles.
Behind the scenes of silk art
Every piece of silk masterpiece carries within itself tradition, culture, and art passed down between generations of a silk artisan’s family.
Making a silk saree is a physically intensive and tedious process, requiring years of skilful practice to master the art of running the looms. The industry is yet to be overtaken by the Industrial Revolution. Thus, while looms run by electricity are in the market, traditional artisans still prefer the silk artisans’ synchronised hands and feet running.
The weaving process by looms requires arranging the threads meticulously and continuously moisturizing the silk threads to prevent them from drying out and losing their sheen. Use of handloom rewards the weavers with special sheen and shine in the fabric, once woven, that lacks in power-loomed silk sarees, claims Mohammad Afzal, a 54-year-old silk artisan of Banaras silk sarees.
“Continous clacking of hand-run looms or ‘khaddi’ in local parlance, run with skillful; hands and legs of the artisan, are the highlights of an art more than 4000 years old. The designs or ‘likhayi’ are a mix of Persian, Mughal, and Chinese motifs adorned on the silk sarees, giving a glimpse of the history that went into its evolution’’
A silk saree is generally 6 yards long, which takes about a week to make. However, more intricate patterns can take up to 6 months to complete! The use of silver and gold threads was started in the Mughal era, which gave the weave a festive feel, reserved to be worn on special occasions and royalty.
However. The challenges faced by the weavers threaten to wipe out the industry. Cheap imitations of cheap synthetic silk are flooding the market, competing against authentic and expensive silk sarees.
Madanpura, once a bustling hub in the bylanes of Benares, housed more than 100 weaving families, of which only 12 remain, claimed by local silk artisan Rajkumar. To deal with the issue, Govt annotated GI Tags on hand-loomed silk sarees preserved the craft of handloom silk sarees.
Handwoven silk sarees, reminiscence of royalty once adorned by kings and queens. Hard labour and meticulous work go into creating a single masterpiece parallel to none. Thus, it falls upon us as consumers, and we lend a hand by consuming original handmade silk sarees and preserving the dying art of hand-loomed silk sarees.
Author – Sakshi Singh
