The story behind the Banaras started from the universe itself is a component of everything in existence. Kashi’s past has been recorded going back 3500 years. In other words, the city had always existed, even before Athens built its glories. In reality, this sacred site predated the founding of Egypt and Rome as a city.
How the word “Kashi” is spelt causes vibrations in the body. Kashi is best described as a place where macro, which means Cosmos, can connect to micro, which means human beings. Cities in old India had distinct areas for each occupation. The dhobi ghat is where people launder their garments; there used to be a different location for bathing, and the cemetery was where people cremated their dead.
The metropolis is referred to as Maha Smashana in early Hindu scriptures(large cremation ground). Approximately 300 corpses are brought to the Manikarnika Ghat daily for burning, living up to its name.
“Banaras is older than history, older than tradition, older even than legend, and looks twice as old as all of them put together, ” said Mark Twain.
According to the belief, Kashi is the only city in the heart of lord shiva. Originally known as Kashi, Varanasi is one of the world’s most well-known and ancient cities. Nowadays, Kashi is called Varanasi, derived from the names of the two holy Gange River tributaries, Assi and Varuna. In the Indian state of Uttar Pradesh, Kashi is located on the banks of the Holy Ganges.Â
Ancient History Of Banaras
Kashi Naresh (Maharaja of Kashi) invited weavers to Varanasi’s religious and cultural events. Varanasi’s ancient and holy culture is closely tied to the Ganges River.
Around 3000 years have passed since Varanasi was founded. The city is best known for its muslin, silk textiles, fragrances, ivory carvings, and numerous sculptures. It is also regarded as the hub of most creative and religious endeavors.
History of weaving
Exquisite cotton textiles from Kasi, which date back to the fifth and sixth centuries BC, rose to the global demand list. When Buddha gained moksha, his cleansed remains were wrapped in chaste cotton cloth from Kasi.
The saris are distinguished by their intricate interwoven floral and foliate motifs, kalga and bel, and a string of erect leaves known as jhallar at the outer edge of the border. These designs were inspired by Mughal art. Other characteristics include gold, tight weaving, miniature figures, metallic visual effects, pallus, jal (a net-like structure), and mina work.
Making a Banarasi saree involves dying the silk in vibrant colors. Silk dyeing is done with acid dyes. Then the weight of the silks is sold. And individuals use power looms to weave the fundamental saree texture.
They build the foundation, which measures between 24 and 26 meters, in the warp of the weaving. There are also around 5600 threaded wires that are 45 inches wide. To hold the form, two persons each tie a rope around their waists, with the third being grounded. Every inch, made up of 120 silk strands, is formed through a complex procedure.
By transfixing or thrusting the pattern thread between the weft, designs are woven into fabrics known as brocade. The weft thread frequently crosses the warp thread and goes underneath it during sewing. However, special threads are transfixed in between when weaving brocade designs in gold, silver, silk, or cotton by skipping the regular weft passage over a specific number of warp threads (depending on the pattern) and regularising the skipping through the use of pre-arranged heddles for each type of patterning.
Banarasi Silk Jamdani
One of the finest items to come off a Banarasi loom is the silk Jamdani, a formalized form of brocade or “figured muslin,” typically made in Banaras. Here, cotton and zari strands are used sparingly to brocade silk cloth. When weaving Jamdani, the pattern thread is fixed between several warp strands that differ according to the scale of the design, and the shuttle is then thrown to pass the regular weft.
The famous Banaras zari brocade weavers developed a method for making tissue material that resembled golden fabric. The weave of this sari has a thick pattern of golden lotuses drifting in a sparkling pond created by running zari in the weft, a mix of zari and silk in extra-weft (pattern-thread), and silk in the warp. Through the use of cut art, “drops of water” are produced. A border of running paisley designs surrounds a diaper of the diamond pattern on the edges and the end panel. The wealthy prefer to wear tissue saris for weddings.
Cutwork saree
After the floated threads that were not planned (woven) during the weaving process were removed, this type of saree was created using the cutwork technique on plain ground texture, giving it a nice translucent appearance. The Jamdani version of cut work is the more affordable form.
Jangala Saree
The brocade convention’s traditional gold and silver designs are frequently interspersed with patterns in colorful silk strands by the brocade makers of Banares to add a feeling of fun and festivity. The current saree serves as an illustration of how muga silk patterns have been incorporated. The wildly scrolling and expanding plant pattern known as the “jangala” is one of the oldest in Banares brocades. This vintage rose sari has exquisitely contrasting silver and gold Jangala motif blossoms.
Butidar Saree
Its most distinctive feature is the dark blue silk saree’s brocaded design in metallic gold, silver, and silk strands. This type of brocade patterning is commonly referred to as Ganga-Jamuna because the deeper shade of gold and a lighter shade of silver reflect the convergence of these two rivers, whose waters are thought to be dark and light-receptive.
The Butidar saree is a luxurious variety of Banaras saree with high-quality traditional patterns and motifs of the design that have become locally popularized, such as Angoor bail, Gojar bail, Luttar bail, Khulta bail, Baluchar bail, Mehrab bail, Doller butti, Ashraffi butti, and Latiffa butti. Genuine gold and silver Jari and Katan silk were used in the weave of Resham butti, Jhummar butti, Jhari butta, Kalma butti, Patti butti, Lichhi butti, Latiffa butta, Kairy Kalanga, Thakka anchal, Mehrab anchal, and Baluchar butti.
Conclusion
Kashi or Banaras is not just a city for the Indian people but also a history.
Kashi was a part of the silk route, which traders used for trading goods and clothes. Banarasi silk saree, suits, and fabric are as beautiful as Banaras.
Author – Renu Deshwal
