How do I check the purity of Banarasi silk?
These are some essential tips to check the Banarasi saree motif, zari work, fabric quality, and authenticity.
Banarasi sarees are always known for their motifs and zari works. Banarasi sarees have existed since forever. Genuine or authentic Banarasi sarees are handwoven by the artisans with silk yarn, showcasing their exceptional craftsmanship.
Nowadays, people prefer fast fashion over fine craftsmanship, so they prefer Banarasi sarees, which are lower in quality, and hence the price is lower. This article is for those who, like me, want to own a masterpiece and meticulous craftsmanship of skilled artisans from BANARAS.
Authentic Banarasi sarees, which are handwoven, take at least 3 months and a maximum of 6 months to make one Banarasi saree, so when I was talking to an artisan who was a 3rd-generation artisan, he told me that when his grandfather used to make Banarasi sarees, he used to be happy just making one Banarasi saree, and nowadays handlooms are getting extinct.
So, here are some of the tests that you can try while buying authentic Banarasi sarees:
- Banarasi GI TAG (Geographical Indication): GI Tag indicates its originality and its purity. This means that the Banarasi saree is from BANARAS, India, and it is authentic.
2. Flip the other side or jaal of threads: Pure Banarasi silk sarees are made from handloom, not by power looms, so when you flip the saree, you will notice the jaal of threads, weavings are uneven, and handwoven sarees have their own beauty. Powerloom Banarasi sarees have smooth and even finishing and minimal thread work.
3. Purity of zari work: Authentic Banarasi sarees are known for their golden and silver thread works. So, to know the authentic Banarasi saree, rub the zari of the saree lightly; if a silver or reddish is seen underneath, then the Banarasi saree is pure.
4. Weight of Banarasi saree: Usually, authentic Banarasi sarees are made from gold and silver thread, so the weight of the saree is heavy.
5.Ring test: Pure Banarasi saree can pass through the small rings due to its purity.
6. Fire test: take out the thread of pure Banarasi saree and burn it, then it will emit a smell of human hair. However, not-so-pure Banarasi sarees have polyester; they will melt into clumps.
7.The right price: Banarasi handloom. It takes 3-6 months to make one Banarasi saree. Due to the time it takes to make one Banarasi saree, prices are slightly higher, between 30,000 and 50,000 rupees.
To check the purity of a Banarasi silk saree, start by examining the fabric closely. Pure Banarasi silk feels soft, smooth, and has a natural sheen that synthetic versions lack. The saree should have intricate zari work made with gold or silver threads—real zari will have a slight metallic feel and won’t chip like imitation. Look for the GI (Geographical Indication) tag, which certifies authenticity. A handwoven saree will often have minor irregularities on the reverse side, unlike machine-made ones which are too perfect. A burn test (done cautiously on a loose thread) will reveal real silk by leaving a crisp ash and smelling like burnt hair.
When buying Banarasi silk, consider supporting local weavers and small businesses who preserve this centuries-old art. Many artisans in Varanasi and nearby villages rely on this craft for their livelihood. Purchasing directly from them ensures authenticity and empowers traditional communities. By choosing handmade over mass-produced, you’re not just buying a saree—you’re investing in heritage, culture, and sustainable craftsmanship. Whether it’s for a wedding, festival, or gifting, opt for genuine Banarasi silk and help keep India’s weaving legacy alive through small, ethical businesses.
Investing in a pure Banarasi saree is a significant investment for those seeking to add a masterpiece to their wardrobe. So, don’t buy just any Banarasi saree; own the finest craftsmanship of Varanasi through Banarasi Poshak.
Author- Renu Deshwal
